I have been thinking for this week past to strike out to-morrow on a tramp round the Island my desire to learn the language is the principal reason, I want also to see the situation of things at different parts of the Island; the brethren will remain together studying; it will [be] combining the getting of the language with seeing the Country.¹ At Mr. Taylor’s this morning hearing his Farewell sermon. His address was calculated mostly for ministers stirring up to their duty as well as warning those that their friends had thought fit to select for the ministry without them having an inward call themselves to be very careful &c. &c. and to preach the gospel using Paul’s words “Woe unto me if I preach not the gospel.”² I thought his address was calculated to rub us but it did not sit very close to us. He concluded by telling his congregation that as he was leaving he would tell them “that they were too careless of their spiritual concerns &c. &c.[”] & wound up by telling them to turn. He had.

This morning I concluded to stay to-day & start to-morrow.

Started this morning the folks expressed considerable sorrow to part with me on account the[y] said [of] the difficulties I would meet with in going round. Bro. [James] Keeler & Bro. [William] Farrer accompanied me three or four miles on the way. I took Bro. [Henry] Bigler’s valise to carry my shirt & stockings & garment and Books in.³ It was the first time I ever had carried a valise the common appendage of a Mormon Elder travelling. I felt reluctant to part with the brethren but thought it best on account of learning the language.⁴

I passed thro’ Honokavai [Honokowai] about 11 o’clock It is but a small place and did not appear to have many houses inhabitants. I called at a house for a drink the[y] were very accomadating rummaged round until the[y] found a glass for me to drink out [of]. some time they do not use any cups[,] drink out of a calabash shaped like a bottle. I passed houses all the forenoon very close together I found they all had names almost as many names as houses. I stopped at a place to enquire if I was on the right road they called it Napili there were some three or four houses there; they were very pressing for me to go in the house and rest. I went in and they asked me if I were hungry I told them I was a little they brought me some Kalo boiled and boiled Goat’s flesh to eat, I eat a little and started.⁵ I towards evening cal arrived at a place called Honokahua I saw some boys beside the road and asked them where there dwelt a man who entertained strangers; they led me to a house some half Whites dwelt as soon as I entered they [the] woman requested me in rather broken English to take a chair, and then asked me if I were hungry, in fact I never passed a house scarcely without them asking me if I were hungry, I told them not that I had eaten at Napili; this family seemed very respectable and they had their house fitted up the best of any house I had seen. There were three persons in the room a young man and his wife as I supposed with a young woman who I believe was the Governors [James Kanehoa’s] daughter having seen her there; they all were part white and the white women were tolerably white and good looking. I asked them if I could stay there for the night and they answered cheerfully that I could; we entered into conversation on various subjects I told them in the course of conversation what I was travelling round the Island for, but did not tell them what I was; they prepared supper for me sweet potatoes and fowl and tea. I did not drink the tea however; after supper they told me that whenever the bed I wanted to go to bed it was ready they had vacated their bed for me; this I had noticed and told them I did not want to take their bed, I said the mat would do very well; the[y] said that would not do I was a stranger and I must take <it> I tried to dissuade but they seemed to think that if I did not take the bed they would be insulted; the lady said some of the folks (the house was full of people to see the Haole) thought I⁶ was a brother in the Church from my demeanor; they said that White men as a general thing in passing indulged in every kind of mischief &c. &c. I told them I was a minister of the Gospel &c. &c. if possible this increased their respect for me.

There was man in [sic] who was a kind of teacher in the place who attended to prayers and the young woman read a chapter in the Bible; in his prayer he prayed considerably for me. I retired to rest which I enjoyed much and felt to thank the Lord for his kindness to me.

Arose this morning much refreshed in mind and body; they soon got breakfast ready I then started, after about a miles travel came to a place called Honolua; it was in a Canōn [Cañon] we would call it at home pretty wide land seemed to be excellent; when I got down to the houses they gathered round a good many to know what I was[.] one man invited me to go to his house <and rest> which I accepted one shouldered my valise another me and packed me and it across a small stream than was running down the centre of the Valley.⁷ He asked me if I was hungry and offered me something to eat several times. After resting awhile I again started and soon came to another such a place called Honokohau; they got me something to eat for dinner.

I started again about two o’clock and crossed a stream & ascended & descended thro’ a pretty rough country and came to another canõn in which there were two or three houses, I stopped and asked for a drink and <rested a> while. I arrived at a place called Kahakuloa about sundown, it was in a valley like the rest, I enquired of the man crowd that gathered round where a man that entertained strangers lived an old gentleman said he would entertain me and told me to follow his wife. I stayed with him all night and conversed with them and showed as I had done every where previously that I had stopped the gospel as well as I could. this people seemed the most interested of any people I had spoken to I sat up until late conversing with them in a broken manner after I lay down I heard them conversing one to another in a way favorable to me.

Arose this morning the man of the House Mika by name carried me across the river and went with me and carried my valise for me up several very high hills, it commenced raining and made it very bad walking up and down hill I got completely wet thro’ I arrived at Waihee [Waihe’e] about ½ past ten and concluded to stay the day with them, in a house where several men were in they interrogated me as to my belief I told them as well as I could they then brought the Savior’s words against me telling me that they must beware of wolves &c. &c. I read to them the next verse “by your fruits you would know them &c. &c.”⁸ I said as well as I could to them that if I preached contrary to the word of God then I could be condemned. I find that I will require considerable improvement before I am able to explain our doctrine to you them. They were very kind to me nevertheless and treated me well.

This morning wet and stormy I concluded it best to stay here for the day as they were very kind in their offers to me. From what I could learn it would be exceedingly bad travelling around the Island at this time on account of rain & bad weather &c. &c. In the afternoon it had cleared off and was dry though still cloudy; I thought it would be as well to travel on. There were two young men went one carryed by [my] valise and the other packed me over the river. They took me to [a] house to stop and told them that I was a missionary and was a “hoahanau”⁹ the man thought he <had> not suitable accommodations but was willing to let me have such has he had. I did not like this thing of passing as a Brother not exactly knowing what meaning they put to the word, whether they applied it to their own particular sect to the exclusion of all others or not; this and his reluctance made me decide not to stay there but go on to Waiehu a few miles further. I started and crossed a small stream and passed some houses to the right toward the mountain, but passed on it began to grow dark and looked very like rain. I walked on as fast as possible and came to one or two houses and a little beyond a river running rapidly from the mountains to the sea. It now commenced raining, I stopped at the house a respectable looking house and knocked at the door, nobody answered I opened the door, it was dark and nobody in, I went to the next house; there were two old women in & two children, the house was not very inviting inside, I asked them where the people were that lived in the other house were [sic] they said the man was not at home; but his wife and girl lived there; they said his wife would be back in a few minutes. I waited and she returned and said I could stay in the house that night; she got a neighbor to come and stay with her. I had a comfortable bed made for me and slept soundly. I found that this was Wailuku, and I had passed Waiehu it was to my right as I came.¹⁰

I got up this morning and started before breakfast in crossing the river [‘Iao Stream] I slipped and fell and got wet. After crossing and ascending the hill a young man came to meet me who spoke English a little, he asked where I was going and if I had eaten. I told him not. he wanted me to come into my his house I accepted and went in with him; they got breakfast ready the best I had eaten since leaving Lahaina; after breakfast I passed up thro’ town and hoped that it might be thrown round so I could see the [Congregationalist] Missionaries[.] I past by the house, but felt a little delicacy about going in an[d] introducing myself in the plight I was in. I went behind the town and changed my shirt and shaved myself, and felt impressed to return into town. I turned down into town and when passing a house, there were some men standing at the gate I saluted them and passed on. I got a few hundred yards they called me back asked me to go in asked me where I was going. I told them I thought of returning to Lahaina on account of the weather <one> [of] them said I better stop until Monday with him. I told him I would; when we got in the house they asked me about my belief I told him some as well as I could and related<ferred> to him to passages in the Scripture he opposed <&> said it would not do these days; we conversed for a while so I told him that I did not want him to believe or any other man if it was not in accordance with the Bible. He invited me to return to Lahaina and come back and stay with him. He asked me if I would like to see Mr. [Rev. Daniel T.] Conde the Missionary I told him I would like to very much; we went up he introduced me. Mr. C. & his Lady [Andelucia Conde] and a Dr. Dugald’s Lady who was there on a visit we conversed on Deseret &c and my <our> object in coming to the Islands &c. He could not believe anything about revelation these days &c. I lent him a Voice of Warning to read; he condemned the principles before he had read or heard.

Mr. [Jonathan] Napela (my host[)] in conversing with him afterwards said if their principles were wrong and ours were right he would embrace them; this made me feel good and I prayed to the Lord that prejudice that might be instilled into his mind might not turnee him from the truth. He was an influential man Judge of this side of the Island¹¹ and his associates [H. K. Kaleohano and William H. Uaua] are the most intelligent men I have seen on the Islands they <have> all been at the [Lahainaluna] High School¹² four years.¹³

Attended meeting this morning Mr. C. preached. After dinner attended meeting again a man of the name of Kaauwai preached part of his discourse I could understand and part not[.] he guarded the people against deceivers and this great sin that was come among them I thought that he was referring to me. After meeting Mr. Napela with his companions were out some as I supposed invited up to the parsonage. They were back by supper while at supper Mr. N. asked me if there was not a man before me of the name of [Joseph] Smith that had got another Bible out of the ground; and had been killed since. I found that the priest had been at their old tricks of circulating lies to the prejudice of the truth. I told them that the Lord had revealed to [Smith] the Record of the American Indians telling of their origen &c. That we did not preach that instead of the Bible; but if it would not stand the test of the scriptures, I did not want it. I told him <that> I told Mr. Conde that we did not take the Book of M. with for the Bible, but proved one by the other. And that I had lent him a book (the Voice of W.) and that he had condemned before hearing or reading; that was not according to Paul’s advice “prove all things and hold fast that which is good.”¹⁴ I wanted him <(N.)> not to judge before he heard, that I would be able probably shortly to explain it to him [but] at present I could not. He said he wanted to know & he would not judge until after hearing. I felt like praying to the Lord that the prejudice he <(Mr. C.)> had been endeavoring to excite against us and the truth might roll upon his own <head> and prove to his own injury.¹⁵

This morning I went up to Mr. C. for the Voice of Warning, they pressed me to stay and take breakfast with them. They seemed a little more favorable; they wanted to know what difference there could be when we professed to believe the Bible I told them they professsed [sic] to believe the Bible and did not and we took it as it was. Our conversation lasted several hours; the Bible, the Bible, was all in all to them shut; but open it and it could not mean as it was written; I could not get him to show me my errors from the scriptures if I had any; but it was all I think, I think, I think, no proof. I brought the scriptures to support me; but they meant something else. I found it was as easy as ever to confound error by truth. He said he would rather belief Mahomet [Muhammad] than Joseph Smith.

I started for Lahaina Mr. Napela did not repeat his invitation to return and stay with him; having as I supposed been warned by the Minister against False prophets &c &c. It was rocky most of the way and blistered my feet. I arrived in Lahaina about two hours after dark pretty well used up having travelled about 25 miles.¹⁶ The brethren and folks were all well.

Very sore from the effects of travelling.

do. do. do.

This morning a man called in I commenced and told him about the Lord having established his church as formerly upon the Earth and showed him the scriptures proving the order of the Ancient Church &c. &c. He seemed pleased with it and left promising to call again.

Variously Engaged.

do. do.

Attended the Native chapel Mr. B. [Rev. Dwight Baldwin] preached.

I was engaged studying &c. to-day.

This morning I thought I would return to Wailuku. I started about 10 o’clock and about three P.M. arrived at a place called Ukamehame where a man of the name of David Malo lived; I had heard from the people a good deal about this man and I was anxious to see him. He was said to be the best informed man in the Nation in their ancient History &c. &c. And was highly extolled by the Natives for his goodness and wisdom I found him out getting some land surveyed; the surveyor was a young man from Lahainaluna a native who spoke English a little. Malo invited me to stay all night with him I accepted his invitation I told him I had called to have some talk with him concerning the Bible and the history of the Islands. I told him that the Lord had restored the ancient order of things and that he had revealed the record and origen of the American Indians &c. &c. I could not express my ideas very well my language was considerably broken. When he learned how long I had been here he was considerably <surprised> at my progress in the language he said I would soon get it he said he wanted to talk with me when I was got so I could and he would like to see that Book. (referring to the B. of M.) I told him that I thought they [Hawaiians] were descendants of Israel because they resembled them very much.¹⁷ He said that his thought was the same because they had observed the same things observed by the Israelites: one was circumcision [which] was a few years ago practised among them; they had places of refuge for the man to flee to that killed his fellow unintentionally. Also at certain certain seasons they kept apart from their women when they had their courses. These things made him think that they were of this race.¹⁸

I was not able to convey to him as clearly as I wished the difference between us and the rest of the religious world.

I had <a> good bed prepared for me I slept soundly.

This morning before starting David presented me with 37½ cents to buy water If I should need it. I did not want to take it he pressed me and I accepted it. He had understood from me the evening before, the way we travelled.¹⁹ I felt to bless the old gentleman for his kindness to me. I arrived in Wailuku about four o’clock I stopped at the house of Mr. Napela; he and his wife [Kitty Napela] appeared very glad to see me; she got ready something for <me> to eat. N. was unwell and was lying on a mat with a boy <busily engaged> (lomi) or pinching [massaging] his legs; it being a practice among the Hawaiians when tired to do so; they say it is a complete preventitive of weariness of the limbs through fatigue.

This evening there was a Deacon came in named Naliipuleho we got to talking on various subjects among the rest Baptism I told them there was only “one Faith one Lord and one Baptism”²⁰ and from the scriptures I could only learn of Immersion being practised. He thought that they sprinkled anciently according to the Scriptures I asked him to cite me to the passage this he could not do. I showed them the various passages in support of immersion and wound <up> by referring them to the Saviors saying to Nicodemus “except a man be born of water and the spirit he cannot enter the Kingdom of Heaven”;²¹ this appeared to be conclusive evidence with them that immersion was the proper mode of baptism. I then asked him if they laid <on> hands in their Church? he said they did <up>on officers. I asked if they did upon members? he said No. I then showed him from the scriptures that it was practised in the ancient Church and was one of the ordinances. We then conversed upon other subjects; he asked me about our circumstances. I told him that we were out of money but that Nalimanui had let us have her house to live in. He put his hand in his pocket & pulled out a dollar and offered it to me; but I refused to take it I told him I was not hungry and did not want it at present he pressed me to take it; but I refused and told him If I should wanted any I would come to him for it; he laughed and said I could not get it then; he was considerable of a humorist and fond of a joke.

They started this morning N & N [Naliipuleho and Napela] to Ralepolepo [Kalepolepo] to attend to some law business. In the evening they returned their first questions were in regard to Joseph [Smith] and his companion meaning [Oliver] Cowdery they having asked me some of the particulars of the Church being founded. I thought from this that what I had said had had some effect upon them; and thought they must have been talking about it. This <evening> talked upon various subjects of Mormonism and the[y appeared] considerably interested in it. Napela told me several [times] that he had a great desire to read that Book meaning the Book of Mormon; I explained to them how it was translated by the power of God through the Urim and Thummim²² they seemed much pleased and especially when I told them I believed they were of the same lineage. They received it all very well and as far as appearances went believed it.

Their thoughts seemed to run on what I had told [them] and they talked about it and asked questions this was what I wanted[,] to see them sufficiently interested in it to converse about it; and my heart swelled with gratitude to my Heavenly Father for having blessed me and answered my prayers to the extent he had; when I came I was afraid I would find them more or less prejudiced; but had been agreeably disappointed. I was invited by Napela to come and stay with [him] I having told [him] I wanted to find somebody that would learn me Hawaiian and I would him English; he told [me] he wanted [to learn] & [for me] to stay with him. This Evening conversing upon Faith and its power; he related to me several anecdotes concerning his Father and about their people I had already found that they [were] very attentive to prayer and believed in its efficacy. I told <him> that they had a great deal more faith than the Haoles had. He said he had thought so; he had looked at the Kanaka & the Haole or foreigner and he thought that the Kanaka’s faith exceeded the others. I asked him about their priests; their priesthood was continued from Father to son and if no son the son of his friend, no man ever took the priesthood unless he had remarkable manifestations; he says that there were other men who had the power of praying men to death; but these things were done now. Their priests had power to get their prayers answered get rain &c. when they wanted it. I told him that I thought it was the remains of the ancient priesthood perverted that they had not been so from the beginning; he said he could not believe so either.

Engaged as Yesterday Studying & talking.

Attended meeting this morning Mr. Conde preached I understood the principal part of his discourse; it was an exhortation to leave sin an[d] evil practices and cleave to virtue. After meeting Napela commenced telling his brother-in-law a half breed and one of the Circuit Judges of the Island and two or three other men of our principles and belief. He told me to tell his brother-in-law whose name is John Richardson the particulars in English as he could talk [but] a little and about the killing of Joseph and Hyrum [Smith] and he would act as interpreter; this occupied about an hour and a half; they were very much interested in the detail and it seemed to please them. In afternoon, attended meeting a Native preached to them on the difference in Godly sorrow and worldly sorrow. After meeting[,] Napela with Naliipuleho they commenced talking upon these things and asked me about the Babylon the Great the Mother of Harlots who I thought she was?²⁴ I asked them to say[.] No. they said you tell. Well said [I] we’ll say it is the Church of Rome. Yes they said the Church of Rome. It says that she is the Mother of Harlots; who was her first daughter? Was it not the Lutheran Church. The 2nd? Was it not The C. of England. And 3rd Calvin &c. &c. until you come to this time and they are divided into hundreds. How is [a] person to know without revelation? and for this thing they killed Joseph Smith because he said that he had revelation &c. &c. they said it was plain and the old deacon [Naliipuleho] said they were like the Jews who killed the prophets. There were two men came in; the old <Gentleman> told them I was a missionary one of them knew having heard Mr. Richardson interpreting. He commenced telling them about the principles of our belief one of them disputed him about baptism [by] immersion being the only right mode Naliipuleho talked to him until he either convinced or silenced him unconvinced and then told him about laying on hands &c. they talked a good while. Napela told me while they were there that Mr. Baldwin had said that if we would work a miracle he would believe us and join us. I told them what the Savior told the Pharisees in regard to sign seeking;²⁵ and that hereafter the Devil’s servants would show mighty signs and wonders;²⁶ if he (Mr. B.) would believe signs he would or might be deceived; that he ought to believe their old priests they could do many powerful things. I said the Bible was the Standard if we did not preach according to that to condemn us; if we did it was truth and ought to be received. They all acquiesced to what I said; Napela said he told the man <that told him> that they had the Bible and that was the Judge. My heart felt so big that I could not stay in the house I went out and gave vent to my overcharged feelings to my Heavenly Father for his goodness to me and giving me favor in the sight of the people that they would believe my testimony to the extent they had. I felt my weakness and the responsibility of an Elder standing as a teacher to the people I realised the importance of such a place and how near I ought to draw near to the Lord for sufficient wisdom and of his spirit to direct me that my course of conduct and teaching might be such as to draw all the honest in heart and not do anything that would weaken their faith in my message.

I thought of returning to Lahaina this morning; it rained a little this morning; after ceasing I started calculating to go to Lahaina and arrived there at about 5 o’clock, considerably tired the brethren were all well.²⁷

Weary from the effects of yesterday’s travel.

Writing up journal &c. &c.

Engaged studying.

This morning started for Wailuku bidding Bros. Bigler & Farrer good bye for some time as they except expect to start for Molokai [Moloka‘i] next week but one and it is very doubtful about me seeing them again before they go. I felt sorry to and reluctant to leave them but there was no other alternative. Bro. Farrer accompanied me on the way several miles. I stopped at D. Malo’s house and rested for about half an hour; while there a White man called in to get something to eat; he enquired of me my business &c. when he learned who I was and what I had came here for he wished me success; he had heard he said Bro. [Hiram] Clark on the boat coming from Honolulu to Lahaina conversing upon our principles and what he had heard about them he liked very well. He lived he said at Hana and was on his way to Lahaina. On parting he said he hoped we would meet again for he wanted to hear more about it.

I arrived at Wailuku about 6 o’clock.

Studying &c.

This morning attended meeting Mr. Conde preached Rom 1 c. 18 v. For the wrath of God is revealed from heaven against all ungodliness and unrighteousness of man; who hold the truth in unrighteousness. He had been showing them what was unrighteousness and ungodliness &c. for about half his discourse. He then commenced upon Mormonism and said this was another thing that was included under this. He said there were five of these men [who] had come to these Islands and he warned the people to beware of them. He then told them about Joe. Smith pretending to have seen an angel or angels to have had some plates delivered to him &c. & that he had translated them, he said, into a Book giving account of the Indians, and that he had they [the] angel he said had taken the plates away again; he thought this was an evidence of the untruth of his story; for he thought they ought to have been left for the world to see. He said Smith was a notoriously bad character and they had built a city called Nauvoo [Illinois] and built a large Temple there and that they stole so much and broke the laws to such an extent that the citizens would not stand it and that Smith and them fought frequently and finally Smith was killed fighting[,] the Lord having punished him for his sins; that Smith while he was living had had a great many wives or concubines and was a very wicked man. He said if Smith had seen angels why did they not deliver him from death? He said they were living at this time at the Rocky Mountains close to a Lake called the Great Salt Lake. He said there were three of these men living at Lahaina and that one of them came very frequently to Wailuku and stopped at the house of Napela says he, perhaps he is his friend. He warned them not to listen to these men they were like Mohamet &c. I understood the principal part of what he said these are a few of the heads [prominent points]; my feelings while sitting listening to this tirade can be better imagined than described I felt as though if I had owned the world I should have given it to have been able to have talked the Native. I thought of standing up after meeting and contradicting but I thought he had the pulpit & could out-talk me; and it afterwards proved to be best that I did not as it was contrary to the law.

After meeting I [went] to him and asked the privilege of speaking a few words; he assented I then told him that I wanted to inform him better in regard to the things he had told this people and have him disabuse the minds of this people of the lies he had told them. He said he did not believe they were lies he had heard them and he should not tell them different; he said if the people had been warned against Mohamet he would not have got so many disciples, and he considered it his duty. I told him I had come to tell what was the truth and the things he had told this people were base lies and I was a living witness that they were and that Mormonism <as it is called> was true; and as true as the Lord lived I would stand as a Witness against him at the Judgment seat of God for having told this people lies and that he would not tell them the truth, when he knew it. I told them he could not prove that Mormonism was false from the scriptures, and I dared him to the [sic] prove if it was a[s] false a system as he he said it was I should think it would be easy to prove it so from the scriptures I said I could prove before this whole people that he did not agree with the scriptures and that he did not preach the gospel of Jesus Christ. Our conversation lasted about 1/2 an hour I talked very fast for I was considerably excited and could scarcely command my feelings, they had <been> so much hurt listening to his slanders. There was about 1/3 of the congregation gathered round to listen among these were two that I knew could talk a little English. When I got back to Mr. N’s house I could not refrain from weeping I wept like a whipped child. One of the men who was standing bye [John Richardson] was a brother-in-Law of Napela’s a half breed and could understand English when he came in he told to the people in the house what he had understood of the conversation which was very favorable to me; they seemed to sympathise with me I told them that they were lies that had been told to them and that I knew them to be such. I had made up my mind to leave Napela’s house if he manifested the slightest desire to have me go. But on conversing with him upon the subject he said no I must stop; he said he was not afraid.²⁸

This morning Mr. Napela started for Lahaina I sent a letter with him to the brethren telling of this attempted exposé by Mr. C.²⁹